Adventures in and around Bariloche: Part 2

Okay, now to the main course. We wanted to put to use the 20lbs of camping gear we'd each been hauling around. Fortunately, Bariloche was willing to oblige with Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi. After gathering some things in town on Saturday (which included a rather forgettable interaction where I donated our excess toilet paper--only need one role--to a homeless man), and struggling with the chaos that is Sábado siesta, we finally caught a bus to Cerro Catedral. Unfortunately, we didn't start our hike until about 4pm or so. The plan was to hike to a Refugio (staffed cabin), camp, hike to the next, camp, then return 
home.

Saturday: We set our from the parking lot for Refugio Frey. The map says it'll take 4 plus hours or so. We immediately regret how heavy our packs are, and that we refused our hostel's offer to leave stuff there. Oh well, what doesn't kill you makes you stronger, right?? Well, it started off alright, not even that tough of terrain.

Then the climb got steep and the weather changed in what I gather to be true Patagonian fashion. It got cold and misty. About an hour from the Refugio, here is a fun series of three photos:

What that last one fails to show is the craggy trail, the 40mph winds, and the snow/sleet/what the hell is this? Very intense experience. 

We finally stumbled into an absolutely PACKED Refugio (no one is camping outside on account of the weather), and had well deserved pizza, beers, and conversation with a bunch of climbers. Apparently this is a climbing Mecca. We found out why in the morning.

Day 2: 

Here's where we found ourselves.

Seriously. That's a huge lake, and those are spires. Anywho, after a nice breakfast we set off on the next leg of our hike. It turned out to be almost immediately more challenging than the first. It started off with a nice route around the lake. Then it proceeded to go straight up up up. Like really just trail markers painted on large rocks, no real attempt at a trail. Here are some photos.

Then we reached a sweet lake, and went up some more.

When we reached the top, we took a wind-proof cave break with some carrots and Oreos. We even met two guys from Oregon who were on the same course and would prove to be our friends for the next day or so. I'll just summarize the next part. We went down. A rock face.

Basically, it was like a loose gravel incline that you half climbed, half slid down. 

It sort of just kept on going. By the time we got to the bottom we were ready for some lunch (horribly seasoned rice, my bad) and a little frisbee in the most beautiful valley. Why bring a frisbee to one of the windiest places on Earth? Oh, maybe to get it lost in a random field hole.

RIP frisbee. The next part was ridiculous. We went all the way back up and then some. Basically scrambling up a rock face at the end. It's like they gave up on the switch backs.

However, when we got over the top we were rewarded with what has to be the most absurd lookout I've ever seen. Again, pictures will fail. The wind was also tearing up there.

And then, of course, we had to go down again. Our aching quads protested all the way down to that lake in the distance. If you squint, you may even see the Refugio. In total, I think today was about 16km.

Also situated on a lake, we much preferred this Refugio to the prior. It helped that there were only a few people there, and we got to enjoy it in the daylight. After setting up camp (psyched to use all my camping gear), we settled down with our Oregonian friends from earlier to enjoy a meal prepared by the Refugio staff (because we're lazy and bad already used the stove once). Beers, food, chatter, and whiskey ensued.

Yes it's romantic, but there also no electricity.

Day 3: Less to write about in this entry. Today was 24km or so of mostly long and flat along the valley bottom. Highlights include scenery (as always),

bamboo walking sticks (I think?), 

and a nice lunch spot by a river.

That actually isn't the spot, but it is the same river we followed all day. After jumping in a glacial pool (cold.), we emerged from the forest onto this incredible farm. I don't know why I neglected to take more pictures. Avinash has some good ones. Horses, dogs, chickens, pigs, and a really nice fellow who asked about our hike. However, all that mattered to me was KITTENS!!

That's one of about 5, and they were really interested in us. Seriously, I can't believe we emerged from the wilderness to immediately encounter kittens. What a place. 

We came out on a road which we had been told we might be able to hitchhike on. Either that or walk a few miles back into town. After a few failed attempts, a very nice couple on vacation from up north picked us up in their truck and brought us out of their way, literally to our hostel's doorstep. 

Signing off for now!  Just arrived in Calafate after an even longer bus ride south. Hope to trek on a glacier tomorrow!